Scotland Retreat Recap: 7 Days in Cairngorms National Park

Have you ever dreamed of walking through Scotland's wild landscapes, mist hanging over the moors, a wee dram of whisky in hand, and unmatched natural beauty at every turn? I recently experienced exactly this during our unforgettable seven-day retreat in Cairngorms National Park, an adventure that combined walking and whisky in perfect harmony.

The group was simply wonderful, each person was there for completely different reasons, but all for the right reasons. Ballintean Mountain Lodge exceeded expectations with its location, food, and hospitality, particularly the well-thought-out dietary adjustments using locally foraged ingredients. Scotland, off the beaten path, is a land committed to rewilding and sustainability, everything from its electric vehicles to the absence of plastic cutlery was something we all noticed and appreciated learning about.

Here’s a detailed recap of our bonnie bespoke adventure, and the highlights that I would recommend.

Day One: Arrival & Warm Welcome

We picked up the Darlings from Edinburgh Airport and took our private transfer through the rugged beauty of Scotland to Glen Feshie. Along the way, we enjoyed a delightful lunch in Dunkheld on the River Tay before checking into the Ballintean Mountain Lodge, which would be our home base for the week. Settling in, I knew instantly that this trip would be one for the memories. All of the ladies were so wonderful and seemed to immediately click. Our night concluded with dinner at the Lodge, a dinner made with fresh local and foraged ingrediants.

Day Two: Uath Lochans & Forest Bathing

After a delicious breakfast, we embarked on our first walk of the trip exploring the beautiful Uath Lochans with stunning views from Farleitter Crag. Covering about 5 miles with moderate elevation, it was a gentle introduction to Scotland’s storied landscapes. In the afternoon, we practiced forest bathing in Cairngorms National Park, each finding our own special tree while sipping on pine needle tea.

Day Three: Glen Feshie & Highland Traditions

Our morning started with a guided hike in Glen Feshie, where we learned about Scotland's 're-wilding' conservation project from the executive director of Scotland: The Big Picture, Peter Cairns. Post-lunch, we enjoyed an intimate house concert with Hamish Napier and Su-A Lee, both world-class musicians who wove stories steeped in Highland culture and community into their music. After the concert, we headed to a charming local pub in Aviemore for a delicious dinner. It's important to note that with every Detour, we work to ensure each Darling's investment in herself passes through to the hands of as many local businesses and organizations as possible, with an eye for those that support our goal of sustainable, slow travel.

Day Four: Forest Walks & Whisky Tasting (woo hoo!)

We began the day with a 6-mile forest walk through the Cairngorms, absorbing every vista and vibrant shade of green moss. Then, we tried the local tradition of wild swimming (guided by the incredible Alice Goodridge, who has swum the English Channel three times!) and this was an out-of-our-comfort-zone experience for everyone but so invigorating. We went back to the lodge to shower and change and got ready for our visit to the Dalwhinnie Distillery. Nestled in the Highlands, Dalwhinnie offered not just a taste but a total experience. We sampled fine Scottish whisky paired with chocolate (!) — I had no idea I should be drinking my whiskey with chocolate! We ended with a hearty dinner back at Ballintean Mountain Lodge, complete with laughter and shared stories.

Day Five: Exploring Strathspey & Local Farms

After breakfast, we ventured into Strathspey, guided by Sarah Hobbs of Strathspey Storywalks to discover ancient ruins, identify local plants, and dive into the folklore of the area. After lunch, we visited Lynbreck Croft, a farm run by two remarkable women who shared their inspiring journey and sustainable farming practices. Dinner at the Lodge was a culinary treat, reinforcing the sense of community and connection we were building.

Day Six: Summit Conquest & Falconry

Our most ambitious hike awaited on our last day, Creag a Chalamain. The 8-mile trek with a notable elevation gain rewarded us with breathtaking views and the thrill of possibly spotting the local reindeer herd. After the challenging but fulfilling hike, we engaged in an incredible hands-on falconry experience. Holding and flying various birds, including a majestic 10.5-pound "sea eagle" (what the Scots call a bald eagle). As dusk settled, we were serenaded by Spud the Piper at the Lodge, a prelude to our farewell dinner complete with traditional haggis and a foraged rhubarb gin drink that was a hit among everyone.

Departure Day: Reflections and Farewells

With one last breakfast at the Lodge, we said our goodbyes to our guide and to each other, there was a shared sense of accomplishment and connection. A private transfer back to Edinburgh Airport marked the end of this special trip, but Scotland had etched itself into our hearts, promising many of us to return.

The Highlights:

Hiking

The walking was wonderful so on our next trip, I think we will plan for a little more hiking! Still, we averaged 15,000 steps a day and our biggest hike to the summit of Creag a Chalamain, though challenging, was a beautiful testament to the determination everyone shared. We also enjoyed the communal huts known as "Bushies," and learning about the welcoming "right to roam" culture, meaning there is no trespassing and you can literally walk anywhere!

John the Falconer

My top moment was definitely our falconry experience. John is an expert falconer (all of his owls are in the Harry Potter movies!) and he introduced us to 8 of his impressive birds, including his "sea eagle" (aka bald eagle) who flew and landed on my arm. I will never be the same.

Wild Swimming

I loved this experience because it brought every one of us out of our comfort zones. The swim was both invigorating and the shared challenge that brought us closer as a group.

Whiskey - and Chocolate!

The whisky tasting at Dalwhinnie Distillery was an unexpected delight, especially paired with chocolate. We dressed up, made it fun, and fully immersed in the experience. I'm never not having my glass of whiskey without a chocolate on the side again!

Why Scotland Left a Mark on My Heart

The rugged resilience of the Scots, their warm and welcoming nature, and the country's unwavering commitment to sustainability truly inspired me. Yes, Scotland's unpredictable weather adds to the "charm", but I think it also fosters a culture of hardy, cheerful people who make you feel right at home. From the delightful teasing between East and West Scots' accents, the well-tended gardens at every home, and the shared laughter spilling out of the pubs made me feel like I was immersed in a culture that values kindness.

For next year's adventure? Perhaps more castles (I long to tour some of the ones we passed by), and certainly maintaining the single occupancy rooms at the lodge which were a perfect way for everyone to have a space to recharge. A final pro tip for future Detours: May is an excellent time to visit Scotland, as it offers great weather and very few bugs 😉

Haste ye back!

Download my off-the-beaten-path Scotland itinerary!

I’ve even included a Google map where I’ve pinned all our favorites in The Highlands. (If you go, and I hope you do, tell them the Darlings sent you.)